Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2022: Analysis
After London, Milan, New York ... it is in Paris that the last shows of the Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2022 took place. With a lot of glitter, XXL volume and international celebrities, the city of light still imposes itself to offer an intense, creative and definitely daring week. So, from Chanel to Balenciaga through Balmain and Dior, here is a review of the latest shows of this Paris Fashion Week.
Opening show of the Fashion Week, it is in the heart of the Jardin des Tuileries that the Dior show took place. Conceived and created by Maria-Grazia Chiuri, the inspiration was definitely sixties, recalling the years Marc Bohan at the artistic direction of the House from 1961 to 1988. A pop collection, acidulous and colorful, oscillating between bright red and deep black, where sporty-chic outfits rub shoulders with sequins and geometric patterns, highlighted waists. Joyful and fresh, Dior seems to infuse a unique energy in its DNA, always very feminine and for our greatest pleasure.
At the Théâtre du Châtelet, Balenciaga signs a unique collection where models, editors, celebrities and other influencers are paraded among the audience. This was followed by a 10-minute short film from The Simpsons in which the main characters, Homer and Marge, dressed in Balenciaga, revealed the Spring-Summer 2022 collection. A way to underline the proximity between fashion and the public, and the link with pop culture, always so desirable. On the other hand, the humor is rarely honored and the shows are rather used to a solemn atmosphere and marked by sobriety and complexity. A good point for Balenciaga, specialist in the mixture of genres. On the style side, we find oversized volumes, signature drapes, monochrome colors and always this touch of edgy street style that makes the glory of the house.
Olivier Rousteing has already been artistic director of Balmain for 10 years. For this anniversary, he presented a fashion show in the form of a festival, where musicians, orchestras and international models set the tone, between glitter, gold lamé and festive atmosphere. Worn by a VIP cast (including Naomi Campbell, Milla Jovovich, or Carla Bruni-Sarkozy), we discover silhouettes with bold cuts, revisited iconic, chains and gold medallions as well as floral embroidery and details for a glamour that is unique.
With this fashion show tribute to Paloma Picasso, Anthony Vaccarello, artistic director of Saint Laurent advocates the female power and the desire for emancipation, while honoring the body of women. It is in front of the Eiffel Tower, on the esplanade of the Trocadero that the collection was presented, mixing narrow pants, suits, unstructured suits, heels and androgynous cuts. This colorful show seemed to recall a certain power but especially a chic wardrobe with a blurred aesthetic and a determined look.
An ultra-sober scenography, a dark room and an endless catwalk, the Chanel spring-summer 2022 fashion show was one of the most awaited presentations of the week. A summery and light collection where tweed is declined in pastel shades and where the beautiful part is made to the stripes (vertical and horizontal) direct inspirations of the sailors for a collection with cruise accents. Fishnet skirts were applied to swimsuits and XXL candy-colored bags structured the silhouette. Between crackling flashes, smiles, and neo-romantic looks, Virginie Viard signs here a sparkling, almost reassuring and definitely captivating fashion show.
Like a general atmosphere more morose and complicated lately, fashion and its actors find here their first quality: to amaze.
Perfect illustration with this Fashion Week placed under the sign of good humor, joy, euphoria and a certain newfound freedom, which seems more than ever celebrated on the catwalks. A tribute to the joy of living, and, without having forgotten the lessons of the crisis, a letting go sometimes necessary.